Wednesday, August 25, 2010

An Opinion: Celebrities vs. Insiders


I used to only see photos of this beautiful woman on Jak & Jil Blog, until I really started looking at the faces snapped by Garance DorĂ©, her bf et al. and noticed that Giovanna is everywhere in the fashion world. She has quite the group of devoted fans, from bloggers on the Fashion Spot to Japan, who pay verrry close attention to her sartorial choices- even if she didn’t have a day job/established connections/a foot in the media already, her popularity greatly increases the value of her stock.

I think I’ll expand upon this idea of having ‘stock’ in the fashion world.

The fact is that women like Giovanna- industry women that ‘regular’ women want to dress like, are extremely useful to the fashion industry at large. Women who are interested in luxury fashion consume a great deal of media related to the industry, whether they can afford to purchase or not. Young women who initially do not have a great deal of luxury ‘awareness’ become exposed to new brands through industry professionals like Giovanna. Because industry professionals cast their nets over a wide range of styles and trends, consumers are made more aware. Editors/Publicists/Stylists are not accessible. If anything, they are encouraged to take risks and get personal with their personal style (genius). Through these women, newer ‘indie’ brands are brought from the fringe into the aspirational realm while older, entrenched fashion houses get to show off the fact that they are still current and progressive.

In my opinion the fashion media should embrace women in the industry as the greatest source of positive publicity. They encourage fledgling fashion fiends to be knowledgeable and more savvy in what they choose to buy and what they choose to wear.

This kind of mentality has a similar rhetoric to that which emerged when celebrities began to become more popular fashion icons; use a beautiful, enviable woman who has heavy media coverage to sell your brand. The key elements remain the same. What changes however is a)the level of knowledge and the experience that you are delivering to your potential customer and b)the strength of the bond that you can potentially establish between the reader and the luxury industry. Dressing a celebrity that is not in the fashion industry brings a mix of intense publicity and creative constraints. Forming a relationship with someone like Lauren Conrad (as the article continues, feel free to insert any current popular celebrity instead) will give your brand a boost in popularity however the average consumer you attract will be less knowledgeable, more fickle and less discerning. Why? Because Lauren Conrad is accessible to most women through virtually all mainstream media outlets.

In order to be exposed to coverage of [Kate Lanphear, Anna dello Russo, Carine Roitfeld, Giovanna Battaglia, Katie Grand etc.] you must already be looking for something more ‘industry-pure’ and industry driven in the first place. That, or you’re already part of the very small group that is able to attend shows and purchase off the runway. I know this because I went through a similar evolution myself (in the former group clearly). I was an informed consumer who wanted to become more informed, directly from the source. The beauty of creating celebrities within the fashion industry is that their culture, the image that they project and their own consumer behaviours work in synergy with the needs of the brand. It is beneficial for a brand to establish a relationship with an industry professional because they are knowledgeable and more likely to take creative risks with the products. In turn, the consumer they attract will emulate this behaviour and adopt a similar mindset.


In her career, Lauren Conrad has a brand to sell and that is *herself*. In the end, her brand will always trump your own (in this case I am not just referring to the brand she embodies in her physical self- her eponymous clothing line too will take priority). Fans of Lauren Conrad will almost always come away with a stronger memory and a stronger attachment to the celebrity than the accompanying brand. It is in fact the ‘brand relationship’ and not the brand itself that is the most clearly established; ie. people know that Lauren Conrad wears Chanel but have no real attachment to the brand image and culture. Case in point: I have actually heard people say that they want to buy “the Lauren bag from The Hills”. The Lauren Conrad brand has trumped both the 55 years of the Classic Caviar Jumbo Flap handbag and nearly a century of work towards establishing the Chanel name brand.

In case anyone is wondering…….I’m not being dramatic about this because I’m sad for the Classic Caviar or Chanel for that matter (they’ll survive); I’m being dramatic because I believe that the aforementioned case study (ha!) is significant in what it says about mass consumer culture. Because of the Internet and the ability to replay streaming videos, people don’t need to work very hard to search for images anymore and can establish a relationship with multiple products very quickly. The mass amount of emotional attachments are formed with specific products that demonstrate a strong relationship between themselves and the celebrity. In this group the most important thing for most consumers is that the product can be identified with that specific celebrity and the lifestyle they represent

Ideally an attachment would form between a consumer and a brand culture, fostering an emotional, intimate, long term buying relationship. Ideally, the informed consumer would buy from a wide range of brands and shop at a wide range of sources (flagship/e-boutique/archives/department store). At the very least, the informed consumer in a lower income bracket (much preferred to the uninformed, wealthy consumer) would be encouraged to think of making an aspirational purchase, even if this only happens once or twice in their lifetime. Such a thing can only happen when consumers are inspired to take a more intellectual approach to fashion, inspired by the women existing within the fashion industry.

*A quick introduction to aspirational branding:

Wednesday, August 18, 2010

A Changed Woman

Alessandra Ambrosio has been reinvented, and I like it. In fact, quite a few of the Victoria's Secret Angels have changed their careers around as of late and have been very successful in doing so. I'd always felt a bit sorry for the VS Angels because they never seemed to get any notable editorial or campaign work outside of the lingerie sector. Victoria's Secret pays really well but it's a bit cheesy, no? You just can't quite imagine Marisa Miller or Selita Ebanks taking on Vogue or i-D.....

I'd always thought it was because their looks did not translate well into high fashion, but after taking a look at the following images I'm starting to wonder. Maybe their agencies consciously groomed them into 'Angel' material in order to grab the most lucrative contracts? Whatever's best for business, I guess. Maybe we all could get modelling work with a bit of eyebrow bleach and straightened hair. Just remove all of your cosmetics, ladies, a bare face is high fashion. Or not.

Whatever the case is, I'm not hating. Check out the new sophisticates, Alessandra, Adriana and Miranda:
Couture editorial from Vogue Russia, May 2010 (Alasdair McLellan)
Moschino F/W 10 Campaign (Inez & Vinoodh)
One of the six covers subjects for Love issue #4 (Mert & Marcus)


Givenchy F/W 09 Campaign (Mert & Marcus)


Loewe F/W 10 Campaign (Nigel Shafran)

Jil Sander F/W 10 Campaign (Willy Vanderperre)
Cover of i-D, Summer 2010 (Willy Vanderperre)


Thanks to Fashion Copious, trendhunter, stylefrizz, Andrey's World, sassisamblog and Fashion Gone Rogue for their copies of the images.

Wednesday, August 11, 2010

A Magazine I Actually Enjoy

When something in the fashion world really excites me I get this combined feeling of complete happiness and intense self-awareness . I can feel my ears prick and my shoulders scrunch up in the direction of my ears- I smile and sigh and repeat to myself 'this is so. interesting!'. I want to absorb like a high quality sponge. Past events that have evoked this type of reaction include American Women: Fashioning a National Identity, Coco Avant Chanel and FIT's Eco-Fashion: Going Green exhibit.

My current joy of joys is a large, beautifully bound new magazine called Industrie, which I have enjoyed in increments over the last 3 weeks. Released, very sadly I might add, only twice a year Industrie enjoys its status as the only magazine dedicated to the culture of fashion. What I see cover-to-cover is a celebration of the people, ideas and business savvy behind the whole industry (to VERY CLEVERLY borrow from the magazine title). I love that it`s readable and doesn`t include anything about love and romance or how to dress for your body type or how jean leggings are the summer`s biggest fashion hit! It may not being the Economist but it`s informative and deeply in tune with what I was looking for in a magazine: industry-focused, varied content and elegant editorial.

http://www.magnation.com/Industrie-2952.php